Glittering Treasure:
Collectible Costume Jewelry
by Elizabeth Anderson

“Eisenberg Ice to melt her heart...to enthrall her...to enslave her...reduce her resistance completely! On Valentine’s Day, crystal or colored stones, big and bright as a Sultan’s treasure.”

“ The lavish look...richly designed, brilliant with icy fire, crafted and hand-set like precious gems...to fulfill your love of luxury.”

These dramatic descriptions from Eisenberg jewelry ads, a company popular since the 1930’s, sum up the excitement and glamour associated with costume jewelry and why people collect it.

Most of Kobey’s regular costume jewelry sellers are found in the back section, usually on R-row.

In general, collectors look for signed designer jewelry like Eisenberg, or a specific material like Bakelite, a synthetic plastic. However, unidentified pieces are also snatched up because of a piece’s sparkle, uniqueness, color, stone rarity, style or ability to accessorize a specific wardrobe.

A signed piece will have the maker’s mark stamped somewhere on the back of the piece. Eisenberg is considered one of the most desired designers, but there are many others including Coro, Weiss, Miriam Haskell, Art, Chanel and Monet.

Just because a piece is unsigned doesn’t mean it wasn’t made by a popular designer. One can tell by the quality, style, arrangement and materials if a piece is that of a designer.
Many costume jewelry makers, such as Coro and Monet revolutionized jewelry design in terms of novelty and comfort. Jewelry characteristic of these innovations are more collectible.

Unless an item is marked for gold or silver content, it is probably pot metal with gold or silver “tone”. Materials include rhinestones, Austrian crystals, aurora borealis, faux pearls and colored glass or plastic beads. It should be noted some costume jewelry is made of precious metals and gemstones (price will reflect it) so if there is a question, have it appraised.

Other popular collectibles are made of molded vintage plastics made to look like expensive amber or ivory. Bakelite is the most recognized in this category. It was first used in fashion jewelry by Coco Chanel in the 1920’s. One can tell it’s genuine Bakelite as it has a slightly oily feel and is extremely solid.

Vendor Joanie Brambora of Joanie’s Jewels displays a brilliant collection of various signed and unsigned costume jewelry. She’s currently building a collection of Victorian era gold-fill lockets and art nouveau pieces. Prices are lower than book and negotiable. Call (619) 218-2932.

When it comes down to it, what makes a piece valuable, aside from its condition, style and clarity, probably resides in the eye of the beholder.
Do you have a treasure finding story to share with us? Call (619) 523-2700 x318.

Article from February, 2004 Issue of Kobey's Magazine.
Prices and items subject to change.